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Chiefish



Joined: 23 Sep 2007
Posts: 2153
Location: Northwest N.J. U.S.A

PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

magictom wrote:
Yeah, this display is amazing - perfectly sets the mood for a date with one of the nerdy girls LOL

Lucky for me the nerdy girl has been married to me for over 13 years already

Now jac when you say build quality is lacking, are you talking about the fit and finish of it or somthing that I dont see. Because I personally might have tried to
A. make the wires a bit shorter so there wasnt so big of an arch to them
B. soldered the main current wires and used shrink tubing instead of wire nuts
C. Try to come with somthing better than lexan to mount it all in.

I might just buy a kit off ebay and try to build one myself, so I would be interested in hearing some ideas from others.
And why is everyone so scared of the high voltages involved, other than the fact of electrocution. I mean I have installed light fixtures and switches , dishwashers that were hardwired and stuff like that around my house and as long as I use caution have never had any trouble.

Altho once when I was like 19 I did manage to weld a screwdriver to a switch housing I was doing because I didnt turn off the juice first. Shocked

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JAC



Joined: 24 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chiefish wrote:


Now jac when you say build quality is lacking, are you talking about the fit and finish of it or somthing that I dont see. Because I personally might have tried to
A. make the wires a bit shorter so there wasnt so big of an arch to them
B. soldered the main current wires and used shrink tubing instead of wire nuts
C. Try to come with somthing better than lexan to mount it all in.

I might just buy a kit off ebay and try to build one myself, so I would be interested in hearing some ideas from others.
And why is everyone so scared of the high voltages involved, other than the fact of electrocution. I mean I have installed light fixtures and switches , dishwashers that were hardwired and stuff like that around my house and as long as I use caution have never had any trouble.



ok.. lot of stuff in your post so I'll tackle this as briefly as I can without writing an essay. Google search all or most of what I say and make your own mind up Wink

First off, electrical safety.. in a nutshell the household supply most people come into contact with, while dangerous, is no where near as dangerous as the rectified high voltage DC used in most nixie designs. Modern house wiring should incorporate nice things like RCD ( residual current devices ) which break all power when there is an imbalance in the live and return feeds... i.e. some of the current is going through you to ground, the most common electrical hazard. The RCD picks it up before you even know what is happening.

It is true that various HV designs offer differing degrees of hazard - for example, a directly rectified AC supply is pretty risky ( dont do it - ever! ), as you have parts of your circuit connected to the nice low impedance mains supply. Using an isolating wall wart and a step up switching circuit is the most common I have seen and it works well. I prefer to wind my own transformers and create the HV stepping I need - this reduces EMI ( esp. when I am trying to decode AM time signals ).. Regardless of the HV source you will still find high voltage caps hold a nice bite of charge ready to sock it to you should you handle them before they are fully discharged - lesson here - always use discharge resisters on caps and NEVER touch a live circuit ( regardless of its supply - this is a good habit to get into even on single battery cell operated circuits). Lots of info out there on electrical safety, so do read, and remember, there is no such thing as being too safe.

Caution alone is not enough, understanding what you are doing and how the circuit works is equally as important. Going back to housewiring for a second...too many times I have seen the wrong wire guages and frankly dangerous fiddling with household wiring. Yeah, everything appears to work great, but well meaning folks lacking in sufficient knowledge quickly come unstuck WHEN A FAULT HAPPENS. This is when the shit hits the fan and suddenly protective circuits dont work, wires melt, fires start and people get hurt.

I am writing an essay.. sorry about that.. I'll stop..

Building a kit from ebay or wherever:

- know what you are doing and it is pretty easy
- they often dont come with any protective housing, so think about putting it in a box or behind some acrylic. Anything!
- consider who or what may come into contact with your build. .. think children with inquisitive fingers. Dont have kids? what about the neighbour or your extended family? Look at equipment around your house.. I bet your TV doesnt have its rear cover off!


Designing your own: .. as above but also..

- consider what happens when there is a fault. Note "when" not "if".. everything will fail eventually. How easy is it to isolate and fix?? Troubleshooting a rats nest of shit is a nightmare and potentially dangerous.

- keep notes. write down EVERYTHING. You will forget most of it in a few months time and fixing or modifying your circuit will turn into a nightmare.

- use a microcontroller.
- use a microcontroller.
- use a microcontroller.

Dont know how to use one.. then LEARN. Wink

.. ok.. no need to have to use a microcontroller, but it makes life SO MUCH EASIER. .. and you can do way more COOL things with them.

- join the yahoo nixie group... there is a TON of info there and some very helpful and knowledgeable folk. Also plenty of designs.


With regards to construction techniques, there are books on this subject, so I cant possibly hope to address them here other than to give my opinion...

- printed circuit boards almost every time. Easy to make at home and cheap to have made out now. It was true they used to be expensive, but it is pretty cheap. Proto board may not be rated for the voltages in your circuit and I dont like the look. I have used and will use proto, strip board / whatever, in the future, but only for prototyping or testing something before laying out a PCB, never in a finished product.

- there are lots of ideas for housing your circuit.. I have seen everything from shoe boxes ( wooden ones ) - to bread bins, cigar cases, old radios, a computer case etc etc etc.. use your imagination.

- wiring nuts, as proto board. Shrink sleeve, wiring layout etc, should all be tied into the overall build incorporating good design principles. - not as an afterthought " to make things look nicer".


.. have a look in Elektor or EPE Everyday Practical Electronics magazines, I havent read one in years, but they used to have a page or two with contruction tips and techniques. Worth a read, I can dig an old copy out and scan the page(s) if you cant find it.


Finally ... time. Good design/build takes time.. dont rush. The finished product will look nicer you'll learn a bunch of stuff and when you bump into a nerd like me you will have plenty to talk about.

I hope this post has been of some help. Typos are free and rambling thoughts are bonus items.
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wepwawet



Joined: 18 Mar 2004
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Location: Seligenstadt - Germany

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good points, thanks:-)
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doccybrown



Joined: 03 Oct 2005
Posts: 1736
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does that mean this clock has no power adaptor? Shocked
In Germany unthinkable since we have 230V AC which
is rectified 320V direct current which is an enormous hazard.
So most safe clock designs use a power adaptor with 9-12V output
and the 100-200Volts DC for the tubes are generated by a
step-up converter, I fully agree with Jac.
The output current is low here and won`t kill somebody
at once if touching anything!

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Chiefish



Joined: 23 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this clock is in a clear lexan case covering all sides of it, I just removed the top to take pics. And to be honest theres not a clock in my house , including all the ones bought from any store that have a power adapter to them, they all just plug right into the wall. I know we run 120vac here so maybe that makes some kind of difference, I am no electrical engineer or anything. It does have a fuse inside the housing of it, weather that makes any difference to the hazards or not I dont know. Jac thanks for responding in such a detailed way , and altho I may not quite understand all of it i do get the idea of what youre saying. And the kits that I have been looking at on the web all seem to have power adapters to them and actually look pretty easy to do. Some more complex than others, but I might just try a single tube clock and work my way up from there.
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JAC



Joined: 24 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An equipment fuse sadly offers little or no protection against electric shock. A fuse with too high a rating is useless and might as well not be there. A fuse with too low a rating will blow and be replaced by the user for a fuse with a mugh higher rating rendering the fuse totally useless. Fuse design is actually pretty interesting.. worth reading if you cant sleep one night. Ratings include more than just the Amperage. Sadly fuses convey a false sense of security Wink...


Regarding the case... keep in mind "that hazardous parts or live parts that could become hazardous in the event of a single fault should only be accessible with the use of a tool."
....
That comes from compliance work I do. As I said before in a post a long time ago, that part of my work involves product compliance - that is all the testing and documentation that goes behind the CE marking on equipment. CE Marking is infact a small part of the compliance, for electrical products the important stuff is held in the LVD - Low Voltage Directive. To demonstrate compliance I use harmonised product safety standards adopted across Europe -. .. there are literally hundreds of product standards.. almost anything you can imagine now from battery chargers to kitchen equipment etc.. sadly not one for nixie clocks - and there never will be. You will also have a job to find nixie tubes that comply with the RoHS - restriction on hazardous substances directive.. I think there is plenty of lead and a dash of mercury in old nixies. So.. dont go buying a ton of nixie tubes and think you will make lots of clocks to sell.. because that would make you a business and business have to abide by regulations. *yawn* I know.

So if you want to know just exactly what constitutes sufficient insulation and how many mm you need to achieve sufficient isolation then check out EN60950 - all kinds of geeky stuff resides in there, from electrochemical potentials in the earth bond path to basic marking requirements. Highly recommended for anyone to read really.

There are lots of kits that look good out there, before purchasing I do recommend joining the Yahoo nixie group.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/neonixie-l/

Ask there for lots advice on kits - I havent built any, as you know I like to design my own.

I also been nagged to death about making my designs available. I will, hopefully over xmas, and I can sell key parts at cost to forum members here.
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smithy



Joined: 27 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use an isolation transformer when building/testing amplifiers...an extra level of safety
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Chiefish



Joined: 23 Sep 2007
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Location: Northwest N.J. U.S.A

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know for a fact that what you are saying about the fuses being a false security, as I have been in the automotive field all my life and have seen hundreds of times where people have been blowing fuses for one reason or another and decide that they need a heavier fuse to stop it from blowing, It usually ends in disaster for any other electronic components in the car including and not limited to ECMs and the such. The worst I saw tho was some knucklehead used a finishing nail as a fuse and ended up burning up his whole car.
Thanks for the suggestion on the Yahoo group I will definatly check that out first and do alot more reading up on it before attempting to build one.....But I think I will build one.
And as a matter of fact Im going to make sure My home owners insurance is up to date as well LOL.

Really, thanks for an experts insight into some of this stuff, I really do appreciate it. Very Happy

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D.8080



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 1474
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last posts are "pimp my nixie clock".


Great!
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MHz



Joined: 13 Nov 2009
Posts: 271

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
What tubes have you used? They look like Z5730. I started to build my own nixie clock and hardware is ready, but now I do not have time to finish the software. The tubes I used are LC531.
Have you thought about joining the passion for CPUs and Nixies? It would be nice to build a clock with larger tubes like Z566 working with some CPU or rather MPU in white case, with for example motorola 74141 with gold legs and other chips in ceramic package.

MHz
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